Chasing Coco #stokxcocotop

 Chasing Coco.


The Coco is very versatile!

The style incorporates a vertical bust dart; a shawl collar; a raglan sleeve and a diagonally cut back.

4 main pieces create the form of the Coco top and then there are 2 ways to finish the front edges of the top. 

Version A has a double folded edge. This is ideal for a light Summery feel.

Version B has a facing which doubles up the front and creates a dramatic collar.

The pocket and the long or short sleeve can be used for either style. The long sleeve has a cut-on cuff with a slit detail..

The pattern contains 2 extremes of the Coco top.

They will take you from a light blouse to a robust jacket with a retro back detail.

The size pack includes 6 sizes so you can size up for a jacket version.

There are lengthening and shortening lines on the pattern too.

I encourage you to find your version of the Coco that might lie anywhere between or beyond these 2 styles.


 Most Stokx designs start with a problem. In this case it was:


What to wear on a very hot day with the Carla rock?


The Coco top  ( Version A ) was the solution to this problem: 


 It was 2013 ?? Maybe??

I wanted something so light and airy that it would almost float above the skirt.

 It looks simple. This part is tricky.

The double folded edge down the centre front is mitred at the corner and continues around the collar edge.  The same technique is used for  handkerchiefs and serviettes..

 

 Both the carla rock and the coco top have a diagonally cut centre back piece and both pieces also feature a wide decorative bias band hem facing. The same detail on the top and skirt helped these garments” belong” together.


The Coco´s raglan sleeve is generously cut, unrestrictive and  the length keeps the sun from the upper arms. 

The  shoulder dart might extend slightly beyond the shoulder point.  I tried to “ fix “ this until I decided that the solution was worse than the problem.

 So, in time honoured tradition “form follows function” *

 The Coco can be worn loose or cinched at the back.

 For version A , I decided to use double belt loops attached on either side of the diagonal back. When the top is being worn loose they are inconspicuous .For a cinched effect a cord or self belt can be threaded through them and tied.


Here are a few more of many solutions:



2022.

When I looked through my patterns I decided the Coco was a versatile style, suitable for different body types.. Not too difficult..fun, useful  and a bit different.  It is good with skirts and good with trousers.

Version A reveals both sides of the cloth and then I thought “what if my customer would like to make the Coco in a printed cloth ?”

 So ..I added a front  facing ( Version B ).

Then I wondered how it would work in a thicker cloth with long sleeves… Then 

I thought  what about pockets?

 Perhaps you can think of an animated film.. One where there is a cat chasing a mouse but just as the cat nearly has it, the mouse turns into a dog, or a space ship… The Coco is a shapeshifter- just when I think I have it nailed down-  it switches it up.

Is there a “perfect “ Coco? 

 Honestly - No.

Initially I thought this was a problem… Now ,after having made at least 10 different versions I realise that I should embrace the playfulness of this pattern- if it stays still long enough.

 The Coco top pattern is a snapshot. I wanted to capture it before it became something else.

Could it be longer? Shorter? Lined? with inside pockets?welt pockets?


 Does it alway have to have a bias hem facing? No.

 It could be double neatened, or finished with a lacy edge; or pom poms.

The whole garment could also be made reversible. Don´t cut the front facing and double the other pieces. Turn the garment through a hole in the sleeve seam and then you have a reversible top.

I would like to give to permission to try out your ideas.

 It is a good piece to try out all kinds of hacks, or politely put, customizations.

It is robust.

A raglan sleeve  is robust and can be found throughout history from a pirate shirt; to an 80´s jacket; to a floor length opera coat.

It is evocative and lingers because it works? A pirate wouldn´t last very long if they couldn´t move.


Epilogue.

 May 22 . A customer asked me whether I would make her a long Coco.

Here it is

 This is lengthened by 28cm. The pockets have been lengthened by 3cm and lowered 12cm  and I have added a side seam for more hip curve

Here are the changes I made to the pattern.

 Lengthening the pattern is quite straight forward.

Adding the side seam wasn´t too difficult either. I dropped a line straight down from the underarm notch. I slightly straightened the side front at the waist and removed the same amount I added from the newly created side seam. Then I added the hip curve and seam allowance.

Adding a side seam and hip curve wouldn´t always be necessary- however my customer´s measurements made more sense with this solution.

I have a hood that could be added onto this collar... This might be another story. What do you think?

 

 I wish you much fun with Coco.

Please share your makes with #stokxcocotop and please use the #stokxinthewild hashtag too.

 

 

*Form follows function is a real rabbit hole.

 Who said what and why is disputed . I will paraphrase:

It looks like it does because it does what it does.


 


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  • Bärbel Krusch-MIelke am

    Hi, ich war leider lange nicht in Berlin, und wenn ich in Berlin war, wollte ich viel lieber Zeit mit meinen Enkeln verbringen, als Hosen und Blusen einzukaufen. Sorry! Aber jetzt würde ich gern wieder Sommerhosen und evtl. Blusen bei Ihnen kaufen. Sie haben meine Maße. Ich würde mich freuen, wenn das möglich wäre.
    Viele liebe Grüße Bärbel

  • Marial Shea am

    Thank you for sharing your creative process! Hearing the story of the Coco Top makes it all the more interesting to me. My body frame is quite small and I don’t suit all the “boxy” styles that are so common. I’m excited to see that Coco has shape! Can’t wait to try this pattern. It’s next in line, after the Square Pants.


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