Square Pants, common alterations before you start cutting.

Here I will state the obvious! We are all different!

There are many descriptions of different body types;  

Apple, Pear, Stringbean, Hourglass, inverted triangle… Tall ..Short.. Fat..small fat… thin.

 I will stop now. The list is endless and confirms the statement above.

So… How can there be perfect trousers for everyone?

  Answer: There can´t be.

The Squarepants are not about a struggle for perfection and incremental tweaks.

They are about inclusivity

This is a robust pattern. Non-judgemental…It is semi-fitted, a good starting point for taking some measurements and ending up with comfortable pants that have deep pockets and allow for plus/minus X kilos.

The secret to success is measuring!

Here are the most important measurements to take into consideration when choosing your starting size.

Crotch length, hip to waist comparison and the outer leg measurement.

Crotch length: There are 2 types of crotch length.

Here is how you measure the first one; for classic high waisted trousers.

Tie a band around your middle. Measure taking the tape measure  from the front waist, between your legs, to the back waist. Compare this measurement to the pattern, including the width of the waist band and consider whether or not you like ease in this measurement.

 The second measurement is if you don´t like to wear your trousers on your waist. Use the technique of measuring between your legs from your prefered position at the front to your preferred position at the back.  Another method is to measure the crotch length of semi-fitted trousers you own and take this measurement into account.

Here is how the crotch can be shortened or lengthened.

The hip to waist comparison:

These trousers are inclusive.The adjustment detail at the back is very handy.

However..Apples and Pears

 Apples: If you have a large waist in comparison to your hips- choose the size closest to your waist measurement and blend into a smaller size for the hips.

 If you have a very large difference add extra to the waist at the side seams and don´t forget to alter all of the waistband and pocket pieces!

There is a time honoured tradition for braces (or if you prefer suspenders), for holding up trousers over a round middle.This method keeps the waist level and traditionally they are hidden under a jacket or vest.

 Feel free to sew on buttons for braces and display them if it makes you happy.

  Pears: If you have a really small waist in comparison to your hips.  You might choose your size according to your hip measurement and make the waist a bit smaller by moving the pocket edge slightly closer to the side seam (1 cm ); increasing the back darts; and/or taking in the side seams. Don´t forget to alter the waistband and pocket pieces

If there is a big difference think about adding a curve to the side seam.

The outer leg measurement:

These pants are quite long. If you are less than 190cm tall these pants will be too long. 

 If you are taller than 190 cm they might need to be longer.

Adjust the pattern before you start.

Whilst you are there; consider whether your knees will be around the same place as the knee darts. The pattern can be shortened or lengthened  above and below the knee accordingly.