The Annie Rock.... Fit and construction tips. #stokxAnnieRock

Stokx Annie Rock.

 

 The Annie Rock ( Rock = Skirt in German )is my favourite skirt.

It works in summer and winter and is easy to style with tops/ dresses of nearly every length.

It is one main pattern piece cut on the bias.

The waist edge is finished with a wide bias facing. This is stitched down and forms a tunnel/casing. A band can be threaded though the tunnel so the skirt can be hitched up to the waist or worn on the hips.

 

 When you have chosen your fabric for the Annie, consider how much drape it has.

The original Annie rock was made from a robust rip stop , however it is also lovely in drapier fabrics.

If it is extra flexible on the diagonal grain it will stretch out when you add the bias facing, unless the waist edge is stabilised with a "stay tape". This can be any thin non-stretch band. I like to use the selvage from shirting weight fabric. I collect it for this reason.

 Make your band the same length as the stitching line at the waist. This will be the same as the waist edge of the pattern, minus the darts ( because they are already sewn together).

Tip: If you want to have a slightly tighter waist it is also possible to reduce the bias front waist into a shorter length by easing it onto the stay band 

.

The darts are not on the side seams, they are more towards the back... because the pockets are so big. In this post where a side seam would normally be is ,referred to as ,the "imaginary side seam".

 How tight around the waist should a skirt be?

2 fingers in the waistband is the rule of thumb... but you know how I feel about rules.

 The band running under the facing is a handy feature to make sure the Annie a stays up when the pockets are full.

 The skirt´s cone shape makes it ideal for a pear shaped person.

 If you need the waist larger, but don´t want/need the extra width at the hips you would have by going up a size.. this post will be helpful.

These illustrations are for adding width to the waist of the Annie
Rock.

Fun Fact: They will also work in reverse to make the waist smaller.

 

Add width the the centre front.

Hold the pattern piece at the hem of the centre front and rotate the
pattern piece 1-2 cm. on the fold. This will add 2-4cm in total.
This will give you a slightly larger waist and less extra hip (if you
don´t need it.)
 The grain line will have to be changed so it is still 45° to the centre
front.
 The bias band facing for the waist will also have to be longer.

Here are 2 options to add to the waist at the imaginary side seam.

1. The first adds a wedge shape all the way to the hem from the waist. Join the
   gap at the waist with a slightly curved line and remember, the bias band facing for the waist will have to be longer.

The other technique is to cut the pattern along the imaginary side seam to the hem.

Hold the 2 pieces at the lower pocket line and PIVOT width into the waist whilst removing width from the hem. You can see by the grid printed on the pattern piece that the hem is about 7cm (on the half) shorter, so 14cm in total.

The pockets are affected by the increase in waist a bit more can be added to them -
the same amount.

The easy way is to pin the pockets in their position and cut and
spread them at the same time as the big piece.
If you are adding less than 1cm (at the pocket height) there may be enough ease in
the pocket for it not to make a difference.

OR
For the best of both worlds you can combine the previous options:
a bit in the centre front; a bit at the side seam; and for fun, a few centimetres less at
the hem width. 
 The centre front at both waist and hem, will need to be redrawn so that there
is a right angle at the centre front.
The grain line will have to be redrawn so that it is 45° to the centre front.

If the pockets are affected by the increase in waist a bit more can be added to them -
the same amount.

The easy way is to pin the pockets in their position and cut and
spread them at the same time as the big piece.
If you are adding less than 1cm (at the pocket height) there may be enough ease in
the pocket for it not to make a difference.

You might find it fun to experiment, because you can´t really go wrong if you keep
the adjustments under 2-3 cm.

This is an extreme photo to illustrate how you can manipulate the hem width and the waist width with a pivot point on the imaginary side seam.

I wouldn´t add more than 3cm using this method... I wanted to share this principle.

This is a way to tighten the hem, but in the case of this illustration, a great big side dart would be necessary. Proceed with caution.

Lengthening the Annie Rock is also an option.

 The illustration below is included in the Annie rock instructions. In larger sizes and/or long versions the single pattern piece might need to be joined. Always add a piece on the same ( vertical or horizontal) straight grain. You will hardly notice the extra seam.

 This principle is the same for any bias cut join... or any join in fact.

 

And Longer Versions

Michelle @formandreform on instagram has made several beautiful long Annie Rocks.

Now a couple more hacks...

 This one is also a longer Annie rock with a gathered casing at the side front. This is a fun way to add " instant glamour" the pockets have been left off this one...  This is also worth considering if you need to hitch up your skirt... for any reason.

Left : outside                                                          Right: inside

Winter.

This longer version of the Annie Rock was created for a customer to wear in her badly heated,(German countryside )studio.

It is felted wool with a slight stretch on the lengthwise grain. I didn´t want to cut it on the diagonal, because I was concerned it would twist. So I cut it with the centre front parallel to the horizontal grain. There was " give " around the body so I added a stay band to the waist seam. It was also lined. I cut the lining( non stretch)  on the diagonal grain. It had to be shortened... bias being as it is. Although a lining tighter than the out skirt is a big No No in my book.Because the skirt was quite heavy ,I thought a metal zipper would be a sturdier choice than an invisible zipper. I put a guard underneath it to prevent the metal teeth snagging in whatever was going to be worn underneath the skirt.

Those who have made the #stokxstadtmantel will recognise the construction of the slipper shaped  pockets. It is sweet that they look like hearts before they are bagged out.

Thank you to Kerry @sew_whirr for her question and for looking through the first draft of this post . 

Any mistakes have been made by me.

 And Thank you to Michelle @formandreform ... in advance ..for using her snaps.