The Design Process

Square Pants, common alterations before you start cutting.

Square Pants, common alterations before you start cutting.

  Here I will state the obvious! We are all different! There are many descriptions of different body types;   Apple, Pear, Stringbean, Hourglass, inverted triangle… Tall ..Short.. Fat..small fat… thin.  I will stop now. The list is endless and confirms the statement above. So… How can there be perfect trousers for everyone?   Answer: There can´t be. The Squarepants are not about a struggle for perfection and incremental tweaks. They are about inclusivity This is a robust pattern. Non-judgemental…It is semi-fitted, a good starting point for taking some measurements and ending up with comfortable pants that have deep pockets and allow for...

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Eine kleine Kim hack

Eine kleine Kim hack

My friend Annette loves colourful swishy clothes and wanted a summer top. She also prefers a nice scoop neckline.  The starting point for this fancy t-shirt was the Kim top. Here are the steps behind this sweet Kim top customisation (hack).  1. Draw a new neckline. Make sure that the curved line is smooth from the front to the back piece Take into consideration the width of the rib band when you decide where the neckline should be. 2.  Draw a slightly curved line across the back piece. The line in the photo is slightly above the waist. Add some...

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Chasing Coco #stokxcocotop

Chasing Coco  #stokxcocotop

 Chasing Coco. The Coco is very versatile! The style incorporates a vertical bust dart; a shawl collar; a raglan sleeve and a diagonally cut back. 4 main pieces create the form of the Coco top and then there are 2 ways to finish the front edges of the top.  Version A has a double folded edge. This is ideal for a light Summery feel. Version B has a facing which doubles up the front and creates a dramatic collar. The pocket and the long or short sleeve can be used for either style. The long sleeve has a cut-on cuff...

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The Missing Measurement Chart

inclusive measurement process rag trade sizing systems

The Missing Measurement Chart

July 17th ,2022 What is happening with “ The Missing Measurement Chart”? I knew it wasn´t going to be easy. We are chipping away at it. The illustrations are nearly done and there is a google Doc feeding into a google sheet. I will put out the call for a number cruncher when there are numbers to be crunched. March 28, 2022 If you are here reading this post it is because you are interested in the best way to collect and collate the measurements of this sewing community- including a chart for the mature body. It is a big...

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The Stadtmantel and the Woolly Jacket

The Stadtmantel and the Woolly Jacket

The Stadtmantel and the Woolly Jacket   utilise an innovative mix of knit and non-stretch materials.  The knit provides warmth and comfort. The non stretch materials create structure and durability. The Stadtmantel is my most worn garment . It started as a warm layer to be worn under a raincoat and emerged as an incredibly versatile garment in its own right. I wear mine from late September to April- as an “under it “ or an ”over it”  It is great for travelling because it is light and I especially love it because it doesn't look like I am about to...

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