The Design Process

Calling it as it is

Calling it as it is

 I just saw an advertisement  for a clothing brand on Instagram.  It was selling itself as sustainable, minimal  blah blah blah! It has been designed by a famous product designer. The photos have beautiful light, the clothes have been made in muted pastels and I could see that even on the skinny models that there was absolutely NO BUST SHAPING!! The zip was half done up and the folds told me that even on the slim model it didn´t fit. I didn´t even bother to look at the size chart because I already knew what I would find - XL for...

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The Carla and how it came to be.

The Carla and how it came to be.

  My customers mistook the Big Pants for a skirt. You could say that the Carla Rock ( rock is the german word for skirt )is like the Big Pants with the feet cut off and it is. The centre front and centre back is exactly on the diagonal grain. The side panels are separate pieces that are cut on the straight with integrated pockets.  The pattern pieces fit nicely onto the cloth with little wastage  The hem on the Carla is a bit of fun and a nod to Folklore .The surprise of colour on the hem adds value...

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How to make the Big Pants from the Carla rock pattern

big pants zero waste

How to make the Big Pants from the Carla rock pattern

I have been inspired to write this post because of the Zero waste movement.  There are a few Zero waste challenges, particularly the #sewcialistszerowaste.  I have been following with a real interest and would like to contribute this pattern idea. Shapes that utilize cloth and fit most bodies can be found throughout costume history.  When cloth had to be woven by hand there was real motivation to use every last scrap. This is a fascinating subject- However this is about reverse engineering the Carla rock.The Carla has the same construction as the Big pants- with the feet cut off.  First...

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interview with #indiedesignerpatternsshowcase

draping process shirtdress

interview with #indiedesignerpatternsshowcase

Dear Ann, Your questions really got under my skin... In a good way, Thank you!   1.Where did your business name come from? My label is called “Stokx “ It is a phonetic version of my last name Stokes.  It  was /is  often mispronounced by German speakers.   When I opened my shop I called it The Stokx Shop  and now my patterns project   is called Stokx patterns , because they are.. 2.How did you get started designing sewing patterns?  My mother sewed , my grandmother knitted and crocheted, my grandfather was a builder and my father was a draughtsman. I...

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How long is a piece of String ?

measurement rag trade sizing systems

How long is a piece of String ?

How long is a piece of string? Or  The rag trade is just that- It isn´t you  What size are you?... It depends.. Are we measuring height? Most people are between 1,50 m ( 5´) and 2m ( 6`9”) Or are we just measuring the leg length ? outside leg? or inside leg?   Are we measuring girth? Which girth ? Chest ? Waist ? Neck ? Wrist ?  All of these measurements have been used for different sizing systems. And…... all of them are WRONG !… for somebody.  The german system sizing men's suits* is one of the most...

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