If you have the Kim you also have a pattern for a simple bias cut top..
read on..
"Can you make the Kim in a woven fabric? "
My friend was heading off to a hot country and needed some cool tops.
The Kim is normally a pattern for knits.. but as those from very hot countries know, a thin woven is cooler to wear than a knit because it "floats"
The Kim top is one of my friends favourite "go to" patterns. It is one of mine too, because it is quick and easy.
I had upsized and cut a Kim on the straight. But honestly, it was a bit blah.. So I suggested we try it on the bias.
The fabric for this black Kim is a viscose linen. It has a lovely drape which was obvious when I held it up by its corner.
The changes we made to the standard Kim were minimal. The dart was pivoted into a diagonal dart ( to the high waist notch ) and flair was added into the middle of the long sleeve.
It was cut completely on the bias and used much less than 2 metres... even with these statement sleeves.
The result was so lovely ! The version with a rib collar looked great too... but we forgot to take photos.
I have been eager to share this post because to Kim is a well loved inclusive pattern.
Its bias identity was there the whole time just waiting to be discovered.
Nevertheless ,Proof of concept is also important . I thought I should try it in a less forgiving woven like this 100% cotton tablecloth-like check.
I used my size, a size 4.
Firstly, I pivoted the dart so it would be diagonal, 5 cm deeper, ending at the waist notch.
I layed up the main pieces and was impressed how thrifty it was. A short sleeved size 4 needed just over 1 metre. I could imagine that if there were a few strategic joins,on the straight grain, that it would use even less.*
The collar easily fit, on the bias, from the left over bit.
The sleeve is about 27 cm long including a 2,5cm hem.
I added about 4cm (2 cm on each side) to the hem of the sleeve.
It went together quickly. The collar might have been sewn on double and then overlocked ; like the stretch version. Alternatively, the collar can finished as you would finish a cuff.
This collar has been sewn onto the neck edge ,then folded over and pin stitched to the neck edge.
When I tried the finished top, it was a bit tight. In a drapier fabric, it might have been ok.
With unforgiving fabric, it would be better to size up.
Coincidently, I was wearing a Kim top in a 100%cotton knit.
Here are the 2 Kim versions together. Knit and Biased.
There are 3 possibilities for the neck edge ... and counting.
1.as shown here
2.with a rib edge
3.with bias bound edge
4. I was tempted to create a chaos collar..by sewing one side of the collar and rotating it 4cm .. so it could chase itself around the neck edge.
Some notes about fabric choice when cutting on the cross.
Ideally, if you are cutting a garment on the diagonal grain, the fabric should behave the same way on the cross grain and the lengthwise grain.
Asymmetry might cause the front to twist or for one side to drop.
Avoid:
1. Fabric with elastan/stretch in just one direction.
2. Fabric that shrinks in one direction and not the other.
(A wash test or pre washing your fabric would sort this potential problem.)
3.Asymmetrical checks! This is an issue if you would like to line them up and it can make the front piece look lopsided.**
Here the centre back doesn´t line up.
The designer at Stokx doesn´t ever claim to be perfect.
*of course I want to try this!! especially for the dress version. There is a bit of reality that needs to be dealt with first... sigh..
** checks are usually designed as shirting which is mostly cut on the straight.
An elongated check is supposed to be "slimming "... a slimming check ?
Now there is an oxymoron..
Whereas the diamonds created by rotating a checked fabric 45°... air kiss.***
*** this is a subject for a future post .