Check your checks ( work in Progress)

I love working with the bias grain.

Quite a few Stokx patterns are " cut on the cross"

In the previous post about the Kim, I wrote this:

Some notes about fabric choice when cutting on the cross.

Ideally, if you are cutting a garment on the diagonal grain, the fabric should behave the same way on the cross grain and the lengthwise grain.

Asymmetry might cause the front to twist or for one side to drop.

 Avoid:

1. Fabric with elastan/stretch in just one direction. 

2. Fabric that shrinks in one direction and not the other.

(A wash test or pre washing your fabric would sort this potential problem.)

3.Asymmetrical checks! This is an issue if you would like to line them up and it can make the front piece look lopsided.**

Here with extra detail

 

1.Fabric with elastan/stretch in just one direction.*

 A large centre front bias piece will likely twist or drop to one side  if the cloth is more stretchy in one direction

2. Fabric that shrinks in one direction and not the other.*

 Pre washing the fabric might sort this out.

3.Asymmetrical checks! *

Shirting fabrics are often elongated checks designed to be used on the straight grain. 

Rectangular checks might make you look taller ( who knows?)

Irregular checks are an issue if you would like to line them up on the bias. This is not to say that you have to .. this is information so that you have the choice.

 A very asymmetrical check, used diagonally  can also make you look lopsided...again just information.

On the left, a check that is the same horizontally and vertically

On the right, a check that is irregular.

Here is how you can identify of your check.

Compare the lengthwise grain with the cross grain.

On the left the difference is obvious, on the right, it is possible that you first discover mid- project that the is  check irregular.

These checks wont line up when cut with a diagonal fold.

They will look like this.

There are also checks that ALMOST look regular!

The grey and white check is 18mm vertically and 17mm horizonatally!

These checks are ok

 The same horizontally and vertically .

*There is a solution!  a centre front seam and mirroring the pieces on the horizontal or vertical grain. this can be quite fabric hungry unless the cloth is the same front and back.

...is this another blog post ?