OBLONG sew along

Oblong Sewalong.

 Welcome!!

Let´s start with some classic Stokx  directness.

This relatively simple shape is deliberately a blank canvas.

 This Sewalong is Free*

My interest is to showcase some lovely Oblongs.

Imagine ..Different fabrics and colours, worn by different age groups and different bodies. This will demonstrate the flexibility of this style beautifully.

It is so important to maintain an inclusive makers community and if we want this we have to be part of it sometimes.

*This Sewalong is an Exchange

There will be an exchange of ideas and help overcoming getting started with a new pattern.

In exchange, sharing your makes on social media** or sharing a photograph or your garment will create a resource for others.

 Permission to video the chat, if I can figure out how to do this ..would also be assumed.

 If you don´t want to appear in a video it is completely ok to turn off your square and listen in.

Times.

 The times will be the most tricky thing. 

 At best please double check the time in Berlin in relation to your time zone.

	Time zone  Aus+NZ	Time Zone US+ Can
Berlin	10:00	19:00
London	9:00	18:00
Hong Kong	16:00	1:00am +1 day
Perth	16:00	1:00am +1 day
Sydney	18:00	3:00am +1 day
New York	4:00 am	14:00
San Diego	1:00 am	11:00

*Here this is a handy website for time zones: https://www.worldtimebuddy.com/

Dates

There is a one zoom link for all meetings.

 Here it is:

https://us06web.zoom.us/j/86747852411?pwd=MlznhNVi7tV5aBXaRs1Bi2bd1Yk2qi.1

It can be cut and pasted into your browser.

 We can meet on zoom. 14th, 21st April,28th April

There will be 2 meetings on each date 

10:00 Berlin time for Australia  and New Zealand or for Europeans who would like to meet in the morning.

19.00 Berlin time for USA, Canada or for Europeans who would like to meet in the Evening

If we are having fun we can also do a 3rd meeting.  I have reserved the time for it to happen

 Here is an outline of the topics that can be discussed in what is hopefully a logical progression.

Meeting 1

I find it Important to stay within the enabling constraints of the style, with the Oblong as a  starting point.

The essence of this design is that it is semi fitted. And because there are splits from the waist down, only the top half needs to be fitted.

 The straightness of the side splits and the centre front means they will be on the straight grain of the cloth so they will BEHAVE.

 For the first part I would like to stay BETWEEN THE PARALLEL LINES.

 I am sure there will be those who say they would like the splits to be at the hip height rather than at waist height… But let´s talk about that in phase 3.

 One of the easiest way to change any pattern is to reimagine the length.

Changing the length will not affect the side splits being parallel to the straight grain.

 A short Oblong in a light cloth would be a sweet summer shirt.

 A longer one would be a dramatic evening coat.

Which materials?

Normally, mid weight woven fabrics like cord, denim, waffle pique, twill, wool  and jacquard, with or without elastane , would be suitable for a jacket version of this style.

If it is re-imagined as a shirt, poplin, gingham, chambray, handkerchief linen would be lovely too.

 If it is reimagined as a coat, tweed, jacquard, faux leather(  they make it from banana skins too as a sustainable alternative). We might need to talk about  lining too... this is also phase 3.

Which size and tweaking the fit.

.Front

Full bust adjustment

Apple shape adjustment

Back

 The Back is cut with ease across the back width to allow for movement.

There will be  small folds there for this reason.

 Choosing a cloth with elastane across the width would allow more movement for this style.

Here are some common adjustments:

on the left for a rounded back, on the right a swimmer back.

 A rounded back.                                                         A swimmer back with a seam.

Sleeve 

This Sleeve is not meant to be tight.

Here is an adjustment for a fuller upper arm.

Adding a diamond shape in the middle of the piece and on the underarm seam should win about 5cm without having to mess about with the armhole.

Meeting 2.

And then Let us Hack. 

 

 Marking your pattern for Variations on a theme.

 

What is a hack and what is a completely new garment ?

 

Creating a back yoke and movement folds.

Tie Belt Alternatives

A classic belt that you already own

Elasticated casing across the back waist.

Ties sewn into the back darts to cinch the back a bit.

Sleeve

 A short sleeved version

A version with a placket and a cuff

 Different Pockets

 A subject dear to my heart.

 

Meeting 3

 Creating a lining pattern

and answering questions we don´t know about yet.

 

That is it for now. 

 I look forward to seeing you

 

 

 

 

** I wont be enforcing this.

I really understand, I am happy to see you in any case.