Tulpen = Tulip in English
The Tulpen Top combines a bias cut woven material with a stretch knit.
It isn´t tight and the hem is slightly flared.
It also features a soft elliptical neckline.
The front neckline has a soft high drape that extends over the shoulder into the back armhole.
The back neckline, stabilised with a ribbed band, crosses underneath the draped front into the front armhole.
There are also 2 sleeve options:
A 3/4 length stretch knit sleeve or a floaty wrap sleeve in the same fabric as the front ,called the Tulip sleeve.
The Bias cut front and sleeve are a good introduction for sewing on the bias if you haven´t done so before. The bias has a different fold language *****
This top can be quite quick to make, however it is worth considering these points before making PREVENTABLE MISTAKES.
1.Needles
Please do some simple experiments with scraps of your chosen fabric to ensure you are using the right needles!
Because you will be sewing 3 different types of fabric ( including the rib) together the needles will have to work for the woven front fabric, the knitted back fabric and the rib across the back.
My recommendation is to use very sharp fine needles( universal).
Sew a scrap of the front and back fabric together and then pull at it and check it.
You will need to use a sharp fine needle to create the double neatened hems for the cut on neck facing, the front hem and the hem of the Tulip sleeve, if you are making this version.
Try this needle with the stretch. sew 2 pieces together and pull it gently apart to see if the holes made by the needles look like they are unraveling and getting bigger. This is unlikely with a very fine needle, but please check.
Often ball point needles are recommended for stretch. The idea is that the rounded head of the needle will go between the mesh of a knit rather than cutting it. This prevents holes and ladders in some knits.
A big fat sharp needle will put holes in knits.
As will a big fat ball point needle!!
So take a few minutes to make sure you have made the right decision about which needle/ needles to use for your project- especially when you are combining different types of fabrics.
2.Bias stretches diagonally, knits stretch horizontally.
Notice also that the bias will pretend it has a 1cm seam allowance and then suddenly reveal that it is much bigger than you intended... or grow in the length.
Use pins, or even hand tack the side seams before stitching them with the machine.
For this reason, it is a good idea to sew with the bias underneath and the stretch on top.
3.Balance
I have found that the fabric for the front and the back should be about the same weight. Using a heavy knit at the back with a scarf silk on the front is literally unbalanced. The same is true if you use a light stretch bamboo at the back with a heavy drapey viscose at the front. It will pull the top forwards.
Let me state the obvious.. EVERYBODY IS DIFFERENT and even if they have exactly the same measurements they may still have different preferences.
Get the know your bias*
Making a toile out of inexpensive cloth is recommended.
Then, feel free to decide if you would like it longer, shorter, wider, tighter and with more space for the chest, tummy or hips..
Here are some useful tips for common changes and alterations.
1.Longer or Shorter .
This top can be shortened or lengthened through the waist or simply lengthened at the hem. The sleeve can lengthened or shortened using these same principles.
2. Lowering the dart. Leave enough at the base of the dart so the "dart tails" are long enough for your alteration.
3. Full Bust Adjustment FBA
4. A bit more cowl
5. A Full Hip Adjustment
6. Adjust the back
7. Pivoting the darts
This is big fun!! we might have to have a zoom meeting about this.
History
It started out with a loftier name... "The Drappagio" which means drape in Italian.
This is a popular style when I have it in the shop because it is an elevated t-shirt.
It can be worn with trousers or a skirt.. with or without a jacket.
It can be styled elegantly or casually. The stretch of the back and the bias means it fits different bodies.
This is why I suggested it the Meike at Crafteln
She renamed it the Tulpen top, which really is a much better name.
It has been part of the pattern collection in German available at Crafteln.
Meike and I decided that the patterns should be available on the Stokx patterns website.
Meike would prefer to concentrate on teaching "Passformoptimizierung",her podcast " Passt" and her coaching business.**
Finally..
A MASSIVE THANK YOU
to Meike and to those who have helped with the relaunch of this piece in English.
And then there were TESTERS...waiting...
Elke @sewthreadbear and Stephanie @thestitchuationroom spotted the Tulpen top on social media and suggested a sewalong.
Elke is the cover girl of this blog post Stephanie is on the pattern cover.
Ronda @anakiequilter made both versions despite the German instructions..
@sandraadee.a , @formandreform, Suzie answered my call on Instagram for testers and for feedback. Thank you so much for the speedy turn around!
AND of course Thank you to my colleague Norea and to Astrid the "Bekleidungsingenieurin"***
* yes, this pun is deliberate.
** Meike has written 7 books ( and counting) She is a natural born communicator.
*** clothing engineer
**** another blog post?